Fluffy, Girly Curtains

I really apologize for the quality. Bad camera is bad. I swear I'll try to get something better up, soon! Also, I know that light fixture is horrible, sorry.

These are some seriously girly curtains. These are a modern, toned down take on the eighties priscilla curtains. I put them in my kitchen but they could be cute in a kids' room or whatever room is girliest in your home.

I started with a single long panel of crushed voile that I found on clearance at Target that I cut in half. You should choose a fabric that is light and "frothy". As in, it needs to have some body of its own but it should be light enough to let light through. Ideal selections include voile, organza, batiste, chiffon, and georgette. Feel free to use something else but be aware that the end result will have the characteristics of the fabric you choose, it will not necessarily match my picture.

You should also keep in mind that the fabric should be double sided unless you want to line it. I will not be including instructions on how to line a curtain panel in this post, so you're on your own if you go that route.

Measure your window. This will need to the be width of each of your panels. The length is up to you, but this kind of curtain looks best when it is at least 3/4 of the height of the window. Be sure to include an extra 5 inches for hems and the rod pocket in the length. Measure and cut the fabric (yes, they do need to be pretty exact) so you have two matching rectangles of fabric. Now you are ready to start!

Materials:
2 fabric panels (we just discussed this. Look at the past three paragraphs)
Two tie backs - these can be matching fabric, ribbons, rope, actual ties, seriously anything

Tools:
Good fabric scissors

Iron and ironing board (or, if you're me, a towel on your kitchen table because your ironing board tends to collapse)
A sewing machine (optional. This can be done by hand if you want)
Sewing pins
Sewing needle
Matching thread

Hardware:
A curtain rod that fits the window. These are (generally) light curtains, you can use a tension rod unless the curtains are especially long or made of a heavier material than suggested.
Tie Back Hooks (sort of optional, we'll chat about this further down)

Instructions:
Make the curtains:
1. Do a double hem on the bottom edges and the outside edges (as in, the left edge of the left panel, the right edge of the right panel) of both panels. Do you remember the double hem? You will absolutely have to iron it this time, sorry.
2. Make a rod pocket in the top edge of both the panels. With the back of the curtain* facing up, turn down and pin a half inch then iron it. Remove the pins.
3. Turn down and pin another two inches so that the half inch turn down is on the inside. Iron this as well. Sew the rod hem on the bottom, be sure to sew through all three layers. If you are using a machine, sew with the front of the curtain facing up (it'll be prettier, trust me).
NOTE: If you bought a ready made panel and are splitting it, you just need to be sure you have all of these hems (outside on each, bottom) and a rod pocket. If you do, go on to step four. If you don't, get to sewing!
4. Lay one panel face UP on a flat surface. Lay the other panel face DOWN on top of the first panel. The panels should be face to face with the rod pockets and outside hems lining up. Pin the inside, hemless sides together.
5. This step can be done on a machine but it is much simpler by hand. If you know how to do it on a machine, go for it. Otherwise: Thread a needle with at least half the length of thread as your curtains are long. If you are making very long curtains, well, good luck.
6. Sew a straight, even seam down the entire inside gathering the fabric along the thread as you go. The stitches need to be about a medium size, too big will leave bug gaping holes between the two panels, two small will make the ruffles tiny and out of proportion. When you get to the end, make the ruffles as tight or loose as you like, then tie off the thread. Curtains are complete!

Hang the curtains:
1. Follow the directions on the rod you bought. I would be more specific but there are seriously a zillion kinds of curtain rods and every one of them is a bit different. A few pointers I can offer: decide if you want the curtains mounted inside the window frame or on the window frame. Mine are inside because the woodwork in my house rocks. Be sure the curtain rod you buy can be mounted the way you want.
2. Run the rod through the rod pocket, hang the rod.
3. Now you are going to tie back the curtain. If you want, you can use tie back hooks which are hardware that you mount on the woodwork. Here is an example of some nifty Amish-made ones with little stars. If you use these, you will not need and actual tie. If you do not, you will need something to tie the curtains and a smaller, hook-like bit of hardware. I used some left over ribbon that I got off a present someone gave me and a couple of Command Hooks (because I am classy like that). These curtains are fluffy enough that the Command Hooks will not be seen. You could also use actual hook screws (this is what grown ups use on their curtains or so I hear). The tie back can be anything that is long enough to tie around the curtain. Be creative! Be thrifty! Things I have used as tie backs in the past: belts, neckties, mardi gras beads (or other long costume jewelery), my graduation tassel, and scarves. You could, if you feel industrious, make a tie out of matching fabric. Basically what I'm saying is have fun with the tie and don't sweat it.

Now step back and enjoy your curtains! Wasn't that fun? All in all,the cost of this project really depends on the choices you make. I did it for about $15 with the Command Hooks being the most expensive part. The key is to look at what you have around the house that could be curtains (old bed sheets for those weird long twin beds from college? Old curtains?) and tie backs. Have fun!

*Sewing tip: Even if your fabric is double sided, it's helpful to choose a "back" on all the pieces early on. Mark the back with a piece of masking tape. This way you will not accidentally do anything backwards, inside out, or just generally wrong. It is also a good idea to write on the tape (NOT IN SHARPIE, IT BLEEDS THROUGH!!) what the piece is if you have multiples of the same shape but with different orientations. In this project, it would be helpful to write "right" and "left" to keep things a bit simpler.